Sunday, September 8, 1889.

Sunday September 8th.

The sun rose brilliantly this morning. About 9 o’clock the high bluffs of La Belle France rose before us. You cannot imagine the picture, and the pleasure of so soon landing after continued and monotonous sea for eight days; the Channel full of all kinds of boats, from Ocean Steamers to Fishing Smacks; the water as smoot[h] as glass. Congratulations on all sides that we have arrived. The tide was low, so we were transferred to small boats. Imagine 140 first class, 150 second class and 250 third class passengers, all scrambling hit or miss for small boats. The “Oxford Party” as we call them, as Mr. Bartlett was an Oxford Graduate, took us under their chaperonage, and we started for Paris after being fleeced the first thing, paying 40c for two pears. As we could not understand we paid for them and then started for Paris at half past three.

The ride I shall never forget. I saw more really rustic, picturesque beauty than in all my life put together before. We passed Bologne and Rouen, the latter on a high bluff making a distinct and lovely picture in the setting sun; the Seine wound in and out; tall trees in clumps and rows; hedges; cattle; beautiful fields; white winding roads over hill and dale; queer French Towns and Peasantry in quaint costumes amused and interested us.

Miss. Manesse, a young lady from New York and [Addie’s daughter] Jennie have become such friends, and the Scoffys from San Fransisco and Mr. Bartlett rode in the carriage with us.

It was 8 o’clock before we arrived in Paris and 9 before we left for Boulevard Houssmann. We had our trunks examined by the Custom Officers and got two Frenchman to put them upon an omnibus and they insisted upon having 5 francs apiece for their service. We refused and they were about to jump upon us and devour us, you never saw such infuriated fiends, but we protested, and just then saw Mr. Tobe, who came over in the Steamer with us, and he settled with them for 1 franc apiece. I could have embraced him.

We came directly to Boulevard Houssmann only to find that we were not expected until Monday Morning. Monsieur and Madam out and no room for us. We waited until 10 o’clock for them and then took a maid and went to three hotels near. All were full. Came back, Madam arrived, called a cab and sent us to some friends’ at the other end of Paris; all full. Stopped at the Grand and Continental; all full. Then we came back only to stay up all night in Madam’s Salon. We did not even take off our shoes, and such a dilapidated worn-out set you never saw, still sailing with the motion of the boat, famished for want of food and worn for want of sleep. We were invited to our room at 9 A. M. the next morning. It seemed like Heaven. 25 feet square, opening out on a sunny balcony; papered in bright flowering paper; solid antique mahogony furniture; blue canopy and long blue side curtains with lace curtains inside, an immense round table in the center, two sofas etc. etc. All this is not new but somewhat worn, except the curtains and walls, but it is such a haven of rest, so roomy and comfortable.


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